1969, being 7 years old, riding shotgun in a karmann ghia, driving past Hollywood boulevard looking out the window, watching the advertisement posters for upcoming movies and diet sodas while the radio’s playing. That was what Quentin Tarantino wanted his film once upon a time in Hollywood to feel like. Something that couldn’t have been executed as well without the help of costume designer Arianne Phillips. Both spending part of their childhood there, they had a similar take on LA in the late 60s, something that resulted in their great collaboration.
“She’s so incredible. She contextualizes the time period and people really will be transported into what fashion was like in the ’60s,” Margot Robbie says.
While Tarantino did not show a melancholic side in his previous movies, excluding Jackie Brown, Once upon a time in Hollywood definitely has a melancholic feel. Margot Robbies character Sharon Tate, who is based on the actual actress, adds a lot to that feel.
Wanting to honor her memory for who she was as a person and not as a victim, she was portrayed as a light and kind individual, being used throughout the film as a positive break from its darker moments. Her character does not have many lines and that is because the director did not want to portray her in an inaccurate way, so a big part of the viewers perception of her relies on the costume design.
Thanks to Sharon’s sister, Debra Tate, Allison Phillips had the opportunity to look into her closet for inspiration and to better understand her style. Margot actually was allowed to loan and wear Sharon’s personal jewellery in the movie. Debra also helped a lot in leading Tarantino to portrait Sharon accurately and do his best on keeping her memory alive.
In the words of Arianne Phillips “I did a lot of research on who she was and what she wore and learned about her life, lucky for us, Deborah Tate, her sister, was a consultant. We got to see her wardrobe, and Quentin and I wanted to recreate a couple of costumes based on reference pictures. Other costumes were created to fit the movie. Deborah very generously allowed us to use some of Sharon’s jewelry, which Margot wore. They were simple costume pieces.”
Now let’s take a look in the outfits that appear in the movie.
- Black long-sleeve mini dress with a black belt above the hips
- Black knee high go-go boots
First time we see her on screen, she is seen in a jet dancing showing her cheerful personality wearing a black outfits that was very stylish at the time showing that she was more fashionable and modern (partly for comparison to Leonardos character Dalton)
- Fur trench style coat with black leather trims
- knee high go-go boots
- Black clutch purse with a gold chain strap
- A floral print dog carrier bag
- Big square sunglasses
- Colourful Scarf wrapped around her head
- Gold earrings
This is actually based on a real outfit Sharon wore and Arianne executed it incredibly well down to the floral dog carrier bag.
- Purple shirt/dress
- Purple scarf matching her top
- Oval sunglasses with blue lenses and orange frame
- Hanging oval shaped earrings (guessing brown and leather) with studs around them
- rings
We now see her driving with her husband to her house where Dalton watches her, and basically envies her, being younger and more relevant than him. The outfit she wears again shows a more stylist side with the matching headband and top and of course the huge glasses.
- Full length snake skin coat
- Scarf with white and warm colours
Another outfit based on something Sharon was seen in. The python coat was designed by British designer Ossie Clark, who she famously wore often, and there is a chance that it was made specifically for her since it could not be founded but because Quentin really love the coat Arianne made a similar one for the movie.
- Yellow hot pants and a long sleeve long pointed collar top (set)
- Big necklace
- Black go-go boots
- Statement collar necklace
At the playboy mansion party we see a lot more of Sharon. We see her wearing a matching yellow set by Ossie Clark from the mid 70s and the colour and the silhouette matching Sharons energy.
- Gold wedding ring
Technically she is also covered in white covers. She is shown sleeping naked something that tones how comfortable and free she felt.
- Stripe top with warm colours
- Denim hot pants
This is a very simple outfit, which she only wears at home. She cares more about being comfortable while wearing once again warm colours that reflect her personality and the overall feel of the movie and decade.
- Black long sleeve turtle neck
- White mini skirt
- White go-go boots
- Black clutch purse with a gold chain strap
- hoop earrings
Once again, this is a reference on an actual Sharon outfit that she wore in Cannes in 1968. Although it is also part of Quentin’s vernacular with his love of black-and-white. She is also carrying a copy of “Tess of the d’Urbervilles” that she bought for husband Roman Polanski.
When she is shown barefoot, I know everyone thought “it’s a Tarantino movie, what do you expect”, but Sharon actually hated wearing shoes and she liked going barefoot all the time. She would often put rubber bands between her toes to pretend she was wearing sandals when she was going to dinner so she could have access to the restaurant.
- Yellow mini dress with floral print and polka dots
- Yellow mini dress white white lace details
Very similar to the previous outfit. Now we see her pregnant wearing more and bright flowy dresses toning how cheerful and excited she felt for being a mother. Also similar to a dress Sharon wore during her pregnancy.
- Two piece swimsuit
- Baseball jersey
Last time we see her in the movie she is wearing a jersey, perhaps her husbands, since she is once again in her home and she puts comfort first.
Arianne Phillips was nominated for an Oscar for this film, embodying perfectly the often misinterpreted fashion of the late 60s. You can tell she did good research. Of course when it comes to Sharon, not only was it a little less challenging since she had references from the actual actress, but also the fact that she had access to her closet and her close relative helped immensely. Throughout her costumes we understand that she was very stylish, whilst expressing her personality with clothes (warm tones, more flowy clothing). I also loved how she found an original piece by Ossie Clark, a British designer who was very big during that time and also adored by Sharon.
I do plan on doing an analysis on all of the characters at some point, because I honestly feel that the costuming in this film is perfection, I just felt it was appropriate since i chose her as my profile picture! Also this is the first ever blog I am writing and I wanted to start with something simple, being a beginner and all, but also something I absolutely adore!
All my love, Alkmini💛
Sources:
https://open.spotify.com/episode/45GA2jEJ2vRjj6rHK3lCqk?si=zFTI7vUhRPKhWNcPt2JPdw
https://youtu.be/qcy4-vBz7cE?si=n7RgZj-KDxrMFnMq
https://youtu.be/gxKNAaImjYk?si=z34Gju7sempaUcMq
https://youtu.be/1IL11FjFApc?si=OJ5e52pL8j-aEM7x
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